Foundation

Your project is only as good as the foundation that it is built on. Never begin a project on any thing but a solid foundation. Without a solid foundation settling will occur and your project will crack and quite possibly fall apart. Large rocks are not adequate unless they are in place and have not been moved or disturbed. If there is no foundation and construction of one is necessary, concrete is the only reliable material available. The concrete should be a minimum of 4" thick and thicker for projects that exceed 3' in height. Reinforcement rod (rebar) is not necessary for smaller projects but is helpful for larger jobs. Take extra time on the foundation construction to ensure a nice square edge that will aid you as a reference point for your project. This will be the plumb reference for the front face of your project.

 Mortar

For a strong bond and longevity it is important not to skimp on the cement to sand ratio. Moisture content depends largely on the sand. Mix the sand and the concrete at a ratio of 3 sand to 1 cement. Thoroughly blend the sand and the cement together to ensure even distribution. Add water so that it moistens the mix but not to the point of being wet. Squeeze some of the mix in your hand and it should hold it's shape not squeeze out between your fingers. If your mix is to wet, add more sand and cement at the 3 to 1 ratio until the desired consistency is achieved. Mix only enough mortar that you can use in an hour, particularly in warmer weather or warmer climates. If it is cooler you can get away with two hours. We, typically, mix six shovel fulls of sand to two of cement in a wheelbarrow.

Stones/Rocks

When selecting the rocks to use for your project look for stones with substance, in other words, look for stones that have three good sides. Avoid standing thin stones on end as this will make placing the next course difficult and the wall will be weak at that point. Keep your mortar spaces as narrow as possible and fill any sizable spaces with a small stone or shard of rock. To keep your work in line and straight use the edge of your footing and a level, if using a string line be sure that the string is not making contact with the wall. If you are not careful, a deviation of the slightest amount will add up to a wall that will be, most likely, leaning out. Using the edge of your foundation or the first stone laid as your guide will never let you down. Once you have selected a specific stone for placement, create the mortar bed by loosely spreading the mortar in place. Place the stone with a slight twisting motion and once in place gently tap the stone with a hammer or even another stone to set the stone into the mortar bed. Pack mortar around the sides to ensure a bond with the neighbouring stones. I prefer the joints set back to give the face a three dimensional appearance and the main focus is the rock and not the mortar. I have found the best time for cleaning (pointing) the joints is each time I mix a new batch of mortar.

Backing

This section deals primarily with retaining walls and planters. Once the stones are all in place, a concrete backing is applied to tie the backside of the stones together, add strength and shed moisture from the soil. Concrete is not as nearly as porous as mortar and is many times stronger. Bring the concrete to within a few inches of the top stone. After the concrete has set up add a layer of sand or gravel to be level with the top stone. this acts as a bed for the concrete cap

Caps

This step is probably the second most important aspect of your project, the foundation being the most important. Surprisingly, the majority of stonework projects that we have come across have no caps at all. And of the projects that do have caps, those caps are simply troweled mortar which add a finished look but that is all. Mortar caps offer no structural benefits to the project and are not adequate for protecting the mortar holding your project together. Concrete caps, although a lot more difficult to install, protect the project much like your roof protects your home. Concrete caps shed water, are attractive and provides, in some cases, usable space for sitting, displaying potted plants or it acts as a workspace. It is important that the cap be covered with some lightweight poly (plastic sheeting) after the forms are stripped and the exposing has been completed. This is particularly important when the weather is hot and dry. The longer you can keep the caps wet the stronger they will be.